I
grew up in North Hollywood, where set builders and prop shops were everywhere.
Musicians came and went. Most musicians were carpenters too. I had plenty of
experience building sound rooms, growing up where I did, but with technology
and precise building, things have changed.
Recently
a client, musician Sapphire Adizes, hired me to design a soundproof room for
him so he wouldn’t bother his neighbors.
When
I was building soundproof rooms years ago we did it the old-fashioned way: We
filled the walls with sand all the way to the top. The only problem was that
eventually the sand would leak through the wall or attract moisture. A more
advanced soundproof room would have solid concrete walls, but that’s not
affordable.
To
understand soundproofing, imagine throwing a golf ball into a cotton canvas. The
canvas has to move or give in order for the golf ball to quietly interact with
it. When building a soundproof wall we need to create a “canvas” on the inside
of the noisy room. The exterior walls are not as important because the interior
wall is doing all the work of softening the noise. (Although four layers of
drywall on the exterior wouldn’t hurt.)
Here
is the method we use today:
1.
After our 2x4 walls are built (whether the studs are steel or wood doesn’t
matter), we install rubber metal clips on the studs. These rubber metal clips
will receive the metal tracks in step 2. The rubber on the clips gets screwed
directly onto the 2x4 studs. That creates the give or movement that we need to silence
the noise.
2.
Once the rubber clips are installed, we snap on long metal tracks called “hat
channels,” because they look like a little hat. These tracks basically create another
wall between the original 2x4 wall and the drywall. The hat channels/track must
run horizontal across the 2x4 stud wall, 3 inches below the ceiling and 6
inches above the floor.
3.
Once we have installed the hat channels, we can install 5/8 drywall on top of the
metal track/hat channel. Some tracks and rubber clips allow you to install only
2 sheets of 5/8 drywall, but there are different ways to set up the tracks and
clips to allow a builder to install 4 layers of 5/8 drywall. A sound engineer
or structural engineer should be consulted first to make sure you have the
correct specifications. On the walls, the extra drywall wouldn’t be so dangerous,
but a ceiling that is too heavy with drywall can hurt or kill someone.
The
drywall on the walls should be at least 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch off the floor. The
drywall on the ceiling should hang away from the 2x4 walls as well. This gap
allows a lot of movement between the interior drywall and the exterior wall, adding
to the noise reduction. Four sheets of drywall is quite enough to muffle most
noise and keep it from passing through to the exterior walls. Again, it’s
essential to have the correct spacing, amount, and gauge of rubber clips and
hat channels to support four layers of drywall.
The
interior walls, where the noise is being made, are the most important in reducing
noise. The exterior walls are not as important.
In
addition to the soundproof room, Sapphire Adizes also needed to get a more
dense sound in his recording room (removing the echo). To accomplish this we
installed 2-inch and 4-inch acoustical foam on all the corners of the room,
including the ceiling. Another approach would have been to rebuild the room
with 45-degree angles on the ceiling, which also deadens the echo.
Always
consult with your engineer, architect, builder, and sound engineer, and the
local city codes before building.
You can check out more projects like that on our website www.Korling.net
Before |
After- interior studio |
After- Exterior |
Interior of walls |
Interior of wall side view |